Tom van Wijlick: «I Wanted to Create My Own Watch Brand»
«Swiss-made still stands for a certain standard of quality, craftsmanship and tradition that is recognized worldwide,» entrepreneur Tom van Wijlick says in an interview with finews.asia. «Especially for collectors and watch enthusiasts, Swiss provenance offers reassurance not only about technical aspects but also about a brand’s values and long-term vision,» he adds.
Tom van Wijlick, how did your passion for watches begin, and how has it evolved since then?
I can still clearly remember my first watch — a Swatch — and I even still have it today. Whether it sparked my entire passion is hard to say, but it’s an interesting thought: these plastic Swatches that helped save the Swiss watch industry may also have shaped my own journey.
After selling my small IT company, I started trading watches in 2012. Seeing the joy a beautiful timepiece brought to people quickly became my motivation.
During talks with brands about setting up their online boutiques, I realized I didn’t just want to sell watches – I wanted to create my own brand.
What prompted you to launch your own watch brand?
Together with my cousin, I initially launched an «online boutique» project for Gérald Clerc of Clerc Genève in 2013. It wasn’t full e-commerce yet, to avoid disturbing retailer relationships. Later, we pitched our ideas to other independent brands like Louis Moinet and Milus.
«I knew I had to act before someone else did»
After about a year, my cousin and I parted ways amicably. I then started searching for a brand to revive – preferably one with real history. That’s when I found Lebois & Co on a list of defunct names.
Lebois & Co Heritage Chronograph (Image: CDMLEC)
The name immediately appealed to me. I discovered a beautiful vintage chronograph that had been auctioned by Christie’s in 2012 and, after contacting the Dodane family, received their blessing to bring the brand back to life.
In the meantime, you’ve even brought two brands back to life. Why did you do that, and how do those two brands differ?
In 2020, I was able to acquire Airain. Timing-wise, it wasn’t ideal – Lebois & Co was still young and I was only working part-time on the business — but I knew I had to act before someone else did, as the trademark was about to expire. Airain and Lebois were originally sister brands, but they have very distinct characters.
Lebois is the more elegant of the two, known for chronographs and chronometers, while Airain is more utilitarian, with strong roots in military aviation, especially its official use by the French Army’s ALAT helicopter pilots. Together, they complement each other beautifully.
Let’s stick with Lebois for now: with the Heritage Chronograph, you finally made your breakthrough in the industry and among collectors. How are you taking Lebois forward now?
The Heritage Chronograph was indeed a major milestone for us. We’re continuing in that direction and expanding the Heritage collection even further – both with historically inspired pieces and more contemporary designs. The Heritage platform gives us the freedom to do both.
«More and more people are becoming interested in lesser-known brands»
There’s also strong demand for a simpler, more accessible watch alongside the complex chronographs, and that’s exactly what we are developing now: elegant, high-quality timepieces with the same DNA, but a more streamlined execution.
When can we expect new models from Lebois?
Lebois & Co Heritage Chronograph (Image: CDMLEC)
For now, I can say: very soon. We are currently working on the final finishing touches. Once everything is ready, we will share more details — but collectors and enthusiasts won’t have to wait much longer.
How can you still excite people today about a relatively little-known watch brand?
I actually think it’s the other way around – more and more people are becoming interested in lesser-known brands. If a brand can offer strong quality, continuity – meaning solid warranty and service – and an attractive price point, it’s definitely possible to build excitement.
The internet has played a huge role in this shift over the past two decades, giving smaller and independent brands much greater visibility and reach.
You insist on having your watches made in Switzerland. Does Swiss provenance still carry that much weight?
Yes, absolutely. Swiss-made still stands for a certain standard of quality, craftsmanship, and tradition that is recognized worldwide. Especially for collectors and watch enthusiasts, Swiss provenance gives reassurance, not only about the technical aspects but also about the brand’s values and long-term vision.
Retailer of Lebois & Co (Image: CDMLEC)
While the world of watchmaking is becoming more global, the Swiss watch industry’s reputation remains a benchmark, and we are proud to be part of that heritage.
Your two watch brands aren’t particularly cheap, but they’re not expensive either. Isn’t that a disadvantage when it comes to positioning the brands?
I don’t see it as a disadvantage – on the contrary. We offer watches that deliver high quality, authentic design, and Swiss craftsmanship at a fair price point. That’s something many collectors and enthusiasts appreciate.
«One major trend is a stronger focus on authenticity and craftsmanship»
Of course, being positioned between entry-level and high-end brands means communicating your value proposition clearly. But for people who look beyond the big names and are seeking something special, brands like Lebois and Airain offer an attractive alternative.
In your view, what are the major trends in the ongoing development of higher-value watches?
One major trend is a stronger focus on authenticity and craftsmanship. People are looking for real stories behind brands and products, not just a name or logo.
There’s also a growing appreciation for smaller, independent brands that offer true value, individuality, and a more personal connection with their customers. Collectors want something unique, not mass-produced, and that’s where independent brands can truly make a difference.
Airain is what’s known as a pilot’s watch. Why is that?
Airain earned its reputation as a pilot’s watch through its official association with the French Army’s Aviation Légère de l'Armée de Terre (ALAT) starting in the 1950s.
The Type 20 chronograph, in particular, was specifically designed to meet the strict requirements set by the French military for aviation use — including excellent legibility, robustness, and precise timekeeping. That heritage is still very much at the core of what Airain stands for today.
What are your plans for that brand?
For Airain, we are focused on building further around its aviation, military, and diving heritage. The reissuing of the Type 20 and Sous-Marine was only the beginning.
«Italy is a key market for many watch brands»
We plan to expand the collection carefully, staying true to the brand’s DNA: functional, robust, but also elegant watches that honor its rich history. At the same time, we are exploring ways to introduce new models that fit naturally within that heritage, without simply repeating the past.
Which are your most important sales markets – do you plan to expand in those, or rather break into new territories?
Team of Lebois & Co (Image: CDMLEC)
Our most important markets today are Europe – particularly the UK, Germany, Switzerland, Italy, and the Netherlands – as well as Japan, Hong Kong, Singapore, the Middle East, and the United States.
These regions have a strong appreciation for authentic, independent watch brands with a story to tell. A good example is Italy. On May 9, we will host a press event in Milan together with our Italian agent, bringing together media, retailers, and collectors.
Italy is a key market for many watch brands, and if we are well received there, which so far has been the case, it says a lot about the perceived quality and potential of our brands.
«Direct-to-consumer and retail can go hand in hand»
We are definitely planning to expand further within these markets, but we also see exciting opportunities in new territories, such as Australia and Mexico. With the growing global interest in niche and heritage brands, Lebois & Co and Airain have a lot of potential beyond our current core regions.
Are Lebois and Airain watches typically purchased online?
From the beginning, we have focused on a direct-to-consumer model, allowing us to build a strong and personal relationship with our customers. At the same time, we are increasingly working with official retailers and distributors.
This helps us reach customers who might otherwise never discover our brands. In my view, direct-to-consumer and retail can go hand in hand — they don’t exclude each other, but rather complement each other, as long as it’s done with respect towards our retail and distribution partners.
Tom van Wijlick is a Dutch entrepreneur best known for reviving heritage watch brands. After earning a BBA in Commercial Economics/IT from Fontys University (2007), he spent several years running his own SME-automation firm, Dexterity, while dabbling in vintage-watch trading. Fascinated by dormant marques, he acquired the rights to Lebois & Co in 2014 and launched the brand’s Avantgarde Date and Venturist models through community-driven design and equity crowdfunding. In 2020, he added the historic pilot-chronograph name Airain to his portfolio. Today, as founder & CEO of Compagnie des Montres Lebois & Cie (headquartered in Reuver, NL, with Swiss production partners), he oversees all labels, leads product development, and builds a global dealer network.
